Why I ride tubulars, Part 2

In Part 1 I described the differences in construction of the two types of tires themselves. Building on that knowledge I will explain the advantages and disadvantages of each type of tire construction in regard to actual use. Again, we will start off the discussion with the pros and cons of clincher tires.

Clinchers:

1. Decent tire can be had for $20 - 25
2. Tire size can be varied from 19 mm up to mountain bike sizes
3. Easily repaired if flatted by replacing or patching tube
4. Could get by on training ride with a patch kit if you wanted
5. Tire is held on to rim by air pressure and rim/tire bead interface
6. Can’t roll if properly inflated but can blow off if not seated properly or tire is overheated on a hot day.

Tubulars:

1. Generally lighter than clincher tires
2. Limited sizes and availability
3. Cannot be patched on the road
4. Carrying a spare tire is necessary on long unsupported rides
5. Tire is held onto rim by air pressure and glue (or tape)
6. Tire can roll off the rim if not properly mounted
7. You can ride the tire completely flat in case of emergency
8. Good tubulars are upwards of $50 each and more

Ok, so with so many pluses and minuses why on earth would I choose to ride on tubulars. Well one thing that is hard to quantify is the “feel” of tubular tires. For a given size the volume of air in a tubular tire is greater. At the same time the shape of the tire and the shape of the rim allows you to run tubulars at lower pressures without the fear of ‘pinch flats’ that can occur with clinchers when you run into objects on in ruts/holes in the road.

Tubular tires by the nature of their shape also corner better than their clincher counterparts. Tubulars impart a feeling of security that leaning hard into a corner with clinchers do not. And with better tubulars with their usually softer, more pliable casings the conform to the road better providing better traction. It is true that the best clinchers now offer lower rolling resistance than many of the best tubulars, but rolling resistance numbers do not tell the entire story about how a tire feels when on an actual road.

There are a few things you can do to help mitigate some of the minuses listed above. The use of tire sealant has been growing in popularity. Tufo and Stan’s are two of the more popular variants and both will stop small punctures without much air lose. I use Stan’s in all my tubulars and I actually know of one occasion where it worked for me, as I punctured on a ride this past summer in Oregon but when I checked the tire it still had about 40 psi and the hole was sealed and I could ride home without changing the tire.

The other issue is gluing on the tire to the rim. With the tape alternatives on the market now it it extremely easy to mount a tubular tire with no mess of spreading glue and allowing it to dry. Also taped tires are ready to ride sooner than a good glued tire. I have used both methods and prefer the glue over tape, but tape has it’s advantages too. I will continue to use both methods in the future.

If you are an avid cyclist (like myself) or a multi-sport athlete or racer, you owe it to yourself to try tubulars at some point or another. Even if you just use them for events or races you will find that it not only performs better but you will also feel a psychological advantage knowing you can corner better or climb faster with a lighter  wheel set.

I use them everyday, on all my single road bikes. The tandem uses clinchers, but that is a decision based on the type of riding we do with that particular bike.  I would not hesitate to suggest tubulars to anyone that is mechanically inclined and wants to “feel” something different when riding their bike on occasion.